Video: Sean almost gets a dog!

Check out the latest video from the road. Sean negotiates a dog. Great and appropriate soundtrack!

The video  footage comes directly from the trip as it happens - the raw footage is edited by Stephen Marra back at base, posted on YouTube and then on our blog.

Let us know by your comments what video topics you would like to see.

Day off in Durango

Getting in a day early gave us a whole day to take care of laundry, cleaning up the van, hanging out in bike shops and enjoying a low pressure day.  Sean had a bad night with a stomach bug so he was pretty low key but we managed to meet some fine bicycle folks in town.

Mac and Caroline Johnson are fabulous hosts.  I feel like we could just stay here and enjoy Durango for weeks.

As I was describing our trip, I told a story that deserves retelling.

As Derrick, Catherine and I were riding up the pass before dropping into Sheep Springs, I startled two wild horses who were grazing by the side of the road.  They took off at the same pace that I was riding and we moved parallel up the road for about 300 yards.  The horses kept looking at me with a worried, curious gaze until they finally dropped into the canyon and disappeared from sight.  Catherine and Derrick were behind the three of us watching our progress up the mountain.

When we stopped for lunch a few minutes later, Derrick announced that he had a Navajo name for me.

"Oliver Runs With The Horses Bock."  I felt honored and asked Derrick if he had an Indian name.  There was a short uncomfortable silence after which he answered that he did but that no one new it except for him and his grandparent who had given him the name.  His daughter immediately queried about whether she has  aNavajo name and apparently she does but she doesn't get to learn it until later.

Caroline arranged for Catherine and I to go to the school where she works and talk to two classes of 5th graders about our trip.  The kids were great.  They had endless questions, comments and curiosity.  When we demonstrated our bikes by driving around the parking lot, the kids applauded us.   Boy was that easy!!

Later in the afternoon, Catherine and I went to the airport to  pick up cousin Jim who is going to ride with us to Boulder.  A dust cloud had moved over the area and everything was grey and gross.  It was a good day to not be riding and we're hoping that the winds will die off as the week progresses.

Dust storms like this are new to this area.  People speculate about why things are getting worse and we hear theories ranging from the many new roads and clearings created by the oil and gas industries that have disrupted the protective surface skin to "global wierding" which is unleashing much stronger winds than anyone can remember.

We all went out to dinner and invited Catherine's friend Catherine Willner along as well.  The Catherine's were really happy to see each other and I know sister Catherine was thrilled to reconnect with one of her dearest friends from over 30 years ago.

Catherine heads to town from Johnson's house

Off to the Post Office to get rid of uneeded stuff

Sign alerting "Parkers" about our event

Caroline Johnson soaking up the morning news

Cousin Jim looking forward to a few days of cycling adventure

Mesa Verde tourists pedal to Durango

I woke early and looked out the window of the van to see a huge cloud bank closing in on us. We huddled together changing our plans and preparing for riding into Durango in the cold and rain. Within about half an hour it was snowing and we were not feeling elated. The view up to Mesa Verde looked dreary and cold so we ate our breakfast and prepared for the worst.
Almost suddenly, the sky turned blue as the storm wing passed over us. Our moods lifted like magic and we made our way up to Mesa Verde where we did a tour of the Cliff House with Germans, Italians and Americans. I felt like a real tourist and was reminded how lucky we are to have created this trip in such a way that most of our experiences are much more personal.
We visited another ruin (Spruce Tree House) with a busload of Japanese tourists, checked out the very nice museum and hit the road by 2:30 for the 40 mile ride to Durango. We have left the Navajo winds behind and we had to work! What a shock! The road and the scenery were great but the driver's were less considerate that those on the reservation and there was a lot more traffic.
Back to the real world, I guess.
We had a great hill down into Durango and Catherine survived it without too much stress. Without too much braking, we were able to hold our speed to under 35 mph although I let it go occasionally and got up into the low 40's.
When we arrived in Durango, we found our way to the Johnson's house who are graciously hosting our visit here. They are a family that we met through Camp Unalayee. The summer camp where I went as a child, where my kids are going this summer and where Catherine's children spend many great summers during their childhoods and where Catherine's youngest will be a counselor this summer. Camp Unalayee creates a community of people who are connected in a similar way to the Navajo clans. We all share a love for experiencing life in the woods and mountains with very little in the way of creature comfort distractions. All the camp people we meet are delightful, warm and adventurous souls who lives are enriched by frequent contact with the natural world around us.

Tourist Catherine heading down to Cliff House

It was snowing two hours earlier!

Cliff House

Sean soaking up information from the Ranger

Bike rack in Mancos - Colorado is bike country

Two New Videos - The Mayor of Flagstaff and High Desert Cruizin'

The mayor of Flagstaff tries out an electric bike ... and likes it! 
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Gbu2PnQjtBI

Cruising through the high desert
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YJsIT63UEjw

Window Rock to Mesa Verde-

We woke to more wind and predictions of 50 mph + winds by the afternoon.  Even though it's Mother's Day, we managed to get Derrick to ride with us for the day and we headed out after saying goodbye to Linda (Derrick's mother in law).  She was so sweet to us and we basked in her hospitality.

We went to Mc Donalds to get "the best coffee in town", unload our bikes, use the bathroom, load up on water and head out of town.

The first 25 miles or so were up a wide valley with smooth, rounded red rock cliffs just on our right.  It was some of the most spectacular scenery we have seen and our friendly tailwind kept us smiling.  Derrick was a delight.  He enjoyed every minute of the ride and added his knowledge and fun commentary to our day. 

We turned east and headed up the pass that would drop us into New Mexico.  Again, tailwinds helped us up a somewhat challenging pass and we stopped to picnic right below the summit where the rest of Derrick's family met us.  It was great hanging out with them and Sean played in the snow with the three kids until his hands hurt from making and throwing snowballs.

At the top of the pass, Catherine turned over the reins of her steed to Sean to avoid the long steep windy downhill.  And it was a long, very steep downhill.  I used my brakes most of the way down and had trouble keeping myself below 40 mph.

Sean disappeared immediately and I won't say how fast he went.  Almost at the bottom, I got my first flat tire and did a roadside repair with the help of Catherine who stayed behind us and was able to stop and help me fix the flat.

We reached our destination and it was obvious that our path forward was full blown sandstorm again.  So, after a fond farewell to our new friends Derrick and his family, we loaded up all the bikes and detoured up to Mesa Verde where I am now sitting in a campground while Catherine cooks mutton stew and we are looking forward to spending most of the day tomorrow exploring Mesa Verde.

It's sad to be leaving Navajo Country.  The limited services and lack of internet barely registered on our radar when compared to the warmth and beauty of the Navajo lands and people.   I will need to come back and I will never forget the strength and warmth of the Navajo's we were so lucky to get to know.  

Gearing up  for the days ride at Mc Donalds

Roadside attractions

While rolling - Pretty good huh?

Yet another roadside attraction

A happy green rider - Derrick

I-phoning the route

Green Riders in front of a green mountain

Sean and Logan playing 

More snow play

Derrick wants an electric bicycle - And so does Jessie

Yet another dust storm

Window Rock - May 8

The Navajo Winds are good and powerful.  We made it from Flagstaff to Window Rock (about 130 miles) without changing batteries.

The Navajo winds are powerful and sometimes not so good.  Blowing sand over croplands, accelerating desertification.

We spent the day at the Navajo National Museum where Derrick had put together an entire program of speakers and vendors all focused on sustainability.  Amazing!!  The turnout wasn't great but there were good people there and as I said to Derrick later, putting together this event in the very impressive venue will benefit him down the road as a competent fighter for sustainability.

After the event, we came back to the house and the event was still going on.  People were gathered in Derrick's straw bale house having a question and answer session about green building, solar, energy use behavior and all sorts of other related topics.  

We had a very fine dinner with the family before heading off to peaceful slumber in Derrick's straw bale home (Tloh Kin -  Navajo for Straw Home).

I ended up not speaking at the event because Derrick saw that I was busy when he wanted me to speak so he let me be.

In preparation for speaking, I made another fable.

Many years ago, there was a very famous horse trainer.  He could subdue even the wildest horse and he travelled all over the land turning the wildest horses into subdued and manageable servants to their masters.  His techniques were harsh.  He broke the horses' will with the power of the whip and the strength of his own will.

One day while traveling to a customer's ranch, the horse trainer crossed through Navajo land where he saw a young boy and an enormous  horse riding along a wash.  The boy had no saddle, no halter and no bridle.  He wasn't even holding on and they were going fast.  It was as if the boy and the horse were one and the horse trainer immediately recognized something amazing.

He stopped the boy and spoke with him about the horse and how the horse had been trained.  The boy quietly explained that he and the horse were connected.  They understood that they both depended on each other for transportation, for nutrition and for friendship.  

The horse trainer didn't understand and thought the boy was a nut who happened to have an exceptional horse.  So he rode off to his next customers' ranch and carried on  with his horse training ways.   But the boy and the horse continued to haunt the horse trainer's dreams and thoughts.  After a number of years, he found himself back in Navajo Country where he sought out  the young boy who was now a man.  They spoke for many hours and the horse trainer spend many days with the Navajo man watching how he worked together with horses, how the relationship with the horse was what created a trust and bond that protected both the horse and the rider and how the joy of that relationship enriched the life of both the horse and the human partner.

After much time, the horse trainer was convinced.  He changed his methods and became even more famous and successful.

Imagine humans learning to love the planet as the Navajo boy loves his horse.

Sean taking our entire exhibit to our table - Yea xtra-cycle!

Solar charger, battery, bicycle stand, petition book and banner

What a beautiful place.

Tony's 10 year old daughter can't reach the ground but the first time I met her she was driving Tony"s car!

A Hogan with a great backdrop - Our view during the event.

One of Derrick's views

The Green Riders were here!

Ganado to Window Rock May 7

Just as we were drinking our morning coffee a truck pulled up and the driver (Teresa's husband) started moving equipment around.  Before he left, he loaned Sean his  air gun rifle and Sean became a very happy prairie dog hunter.  He didn't get any but it kept him very busy  and we rolled off the farm fairly late.  We headed back over to the Hubbell Trading Post and talked to the Superintendent about ways to use all the irrigation water available to try to do some farming.  We introduced the idea of getting a group of volunteers from the Grand Canyon Trust or from interested University programs to come and learn how to farm in the traditional Navajo Ways.  The Superintendent was very open to the idea so maybe something will come of it.  Our feeling is that if the local community sees that farming can work, even if they don't create the initial farm, by seeing a successful model, they may be more interested in getting back into farming as a viable form of employment and cultural revival.
Finally getting on our bikes by 11:30 we rode the 30 miles into Window Rock.  The road was busy with a narrow shoulder but the driver's were courteous and we had a nice gentle tailwind.  Most of the route climbed and before we dropped into Window Rock, we were riding through beautiful pine forests that reminded me of the high Sierra.  Just gorgeous.

We made our way out to Derrick's straw bale home early enough to hang out and enjoy the lovely spot.  As evening rolled around people started showing up and we ended up having a wonderful meal together with about 20 or so people gathered in the still unfinished and very comfortable straw bale home that Derrick and his family are building.  His mother-in-law, Linda gave us a gift of a beautiful small Navajo rug woven by a "very old woman".  She and the rest of her family are incredibly gracious and kind.  We so enjoy being with them!  Derrick will be joining us on the ride when we leave on Sunday and we are thrilled.  He knows the area and is such a fun positive soul we feel very lucky to have a chance to spend some time together with him.

Derrick's family visiting us in the van

Serious business those Prairie Dogs

Don't think I've seen one of these before

Climbing into high plateau forest

Tagging the summit

Derrick's Straw Bale Home

Derrick preparing the grill for roasting corn